Connecting rod and crankshaft for motocross and enduro - engine power and reliability
( number of products: 927 )Hot Rods crankshaft bearings + seals Yamaha YZ 250 X '16-22 / Yamaha YZ 250 '01-23 / Fantic XX 250 '21-23
75,57 € gross/1pcs.
Hot Rods crankshaft bearings KTM SXF 250 '13-'15, XCF 250 '13-'15, SXF 350 13-15, EXCF 350 13-16
147,54 € gross/1pcs.
Hot Rods crankshaft bearings KTM SX 85 '03-'24 / Husqvarna TC 85 '14-'24 / Gas Gas MC 85 '21-'24
82,97 € gross/1pcs.
Hot Rods crankshaft bearings + seals KTM SX 250 / XC-W 250 / 300 / EXC 250 / 300 TPI / XC-W 250 TPI / XC 250 / 300 TPI Husqvarna TC 250 / TX 300 i / TE 250 / 300 i Gas Gas EC 250 / 300 / MC 250 / EX 250 300
83,44 € gross/1pcs.
Hot Rods crankshaft bearings KTM 144 SX 07-08/125 SX 01-17 Husqvarna 125 TC/TE (14-17)
80,97 € gross/1pcs.
Hot Rods crankshaft bearings Kawasaki KXF 450 (06-17), KLX 450R 08-13, KFX 450R 08-14
58,31 € gross/1pcs.
Connecting Rods & Crankshafts are the core rotating parts that keep your MX/off-road engine alive when you’re hard on the throttle, landing jumps, or lugging through deep sand. This category is for rebuilding worn bottom ends, fixing knock and vibration after hours of abuse, and restoring correct compression and smooth power delivery. If you’re chasing a reliable start, clean revs, and an engine that won’t grenade mid-moto, the right rod and crank setup is where it begins.
When choosing, start with exact fit and compatibility: model, year, engine code, stroke, and whether you need a complete crank assembly, a rod kit, or main bearings/seals to match. Next, look at material and build type: forged vs cast, OEM-spec vs heavy-duty, and whether it’s balanced for stock piston weight. Consider riding conditions and tuning—high RPM sand tracks, big-bore kits, or aggressive ignition demand stronger parts and tighter assembly standards. Finally, plan maintenance: check runout specs, bearing condition, and whether you have access to proper pressing/truing or need a pre-built crank to avoid downtime.
Common mistakes are reusing a blued pin, pitted big-end bearing, or mismatched bearings, and ignoring crank runout after a hard impact. Replace or inspect if you hear bottom-end knock, see metal in the oil, feel new vibration through the pegs, or notice inconsistent idle and decel noise. Always check cases for debris, oil passages for blockage, and clutch-side play before closing the engine.
Tip: Measure crank runout with a dial indicator before final assembly—if it’s out of spec, fix it now, not after the first ride.
