Brake lines for motocross and enduro - precision, resistance and safety
( number of products: 19 )TRW Lucas hydraulic bolt for brake lines M10X1,25 double red color
7,30 € gross/1pcs.
Moto-Master Przewód hamulcowy tył KTM SX/SXF/SX-F/EXC/EXCF/EXC-F 04-21 / HUSQVARNA TE/TC/FE/FC 14-21 / GASGAS EX 21
68,03 € gross/1pcs.
Rear brake hose (77213070300) (A54013070000) KTM EXC-F / EXC TPI / EXC / EXC-F / SX-F / SX Husqvarna FS / FX / FC / TC Gas Gas MC F / MC / EC / EC F HEL Performance
46,75 € gross/1pcs.
Brake lines are a critical part of your MX/off-road braking system, carrying hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder to the caliper for consistent stopping power. This category is for riders replacing worn, damaged, or spongy-feeling lines after hard enduro, deep ruts, rock hits, or repeated brake heat on long downhills. Fresh, correctly spec’d lines help fix a soft lever, inconsistent bite, and fading feel so you can brake later with confidence while riding in boots, jersey, pants, body armor, and knee guards.
When choosing brake lines, start with exact fit and compatibility: make/model/year, front or rear, ABS vs non-ABS where applicable, and correct banjo angles and lengths to avoid kinks at full fork travel and lock-to-lock steering. Pick the right construction for your riding: OEM-style rubber for standard use, or braided stainless/PTFE for a firmer lever and better heat resistance in aggressive off-road. Also consider routing and protection (sleeves, guides) for mud, sand, and roost, and plan on fresh crush washers and the correct brake fluid for your system.
Common mistakes are reusing old washers, twisting the line during install, or letting it rub the fork guard or frame until it chafes through. Replace a brake line if you see cracking, bulging, wet spots, rusted fittings, or if the lever feel changes after a bleed. After installation, check for leaks under pressure, verify free movement through full suspension travel, and keep fittings clean to prevent contamination during service.
Tip: Zip-tie the line in its final routing, compress the suspension fully, and turn the bars both ways before tightening banjo bolts—zero tension means longer line life.
